oil cleansing (the first cleanse): a thorough yet gentle cleanse.

I am about to spill some real tea on all of you. First thing you need to hear is this: A MAKEUP WIPE DOES NOT COUNT AS CLEANSING YOUR FACE. Am I cancelled yet? There is a better and more effective way of taking off makeup and sunscreen than a makeup wipe. Makeup wipes contain harsh surfactants and strong preservatives, and they create a huge amount of waste. Just imagine: one person uses 365 makeup wipes a year if they use one every night. If you take that number and multiply it by everyone who wears makeup, that is an enormous amount of waste. ✧ The tugging motions are very abrasive on the skin and can cause premature aging and even hyperpigmentation. Another problem, most likely associated with the advertising of makeup wipes, is the false assumption that they can be used as a cleansing step. Sadly, there are people who use a makeup wipe in place of a cleanser. My heart physically aches whenever I see it. Killing turtles and your poor skin, smh. Therefore, when you see Neutrogena makeup removing wipes, please cringe in my honor. Those blue packages are the bane of my existence.

FEAR NOT! There is a savior: OIL. Oil cleansing is far more effective and more nourishing than makeup wipes or using a cleanser twice, another way to double cleanse. ✧ It provides the skin with nutrients while effectively melting away makeup, excess sebum, SPF, and other grime accumulated throughout the day. Oil cleansing works by dissolving the film on the skin made by makeup, SPF, etc. People with oily skin have really benefited from oil cleansing because oil attracts oil. The skin overproduces oil because of the lack of omega fatty acids it has. ✧ Therefore, if you have oily skin, don’t be afraid of using oil: your skin wants it! There are certain oils that are better for oily skin, as well as those for dry skin. ✧ Oily skin is high in a substance called oleic acid. Oleic acid occurs naturally in the skin, while linoleic acid is less abundant. Acne prone skin is lacking in linoleic acid, which is why the sebum is thicker and more waxy. This skin type benefits more from oils high in linoleic acid. ✧ Dry skin on the other hand is high in linoleic acid, and lacks oleic acid. Hence why the sebum is thinner. Dry skin is better off with oils high in oleic acid. These are some beneficial oils for oily and dry skin: (credit: The Golden Rx) However, since the oils are not staying on the skin for very long, it doesn't matter all that much.

A formulated oil cleanser has emulsifiers to remove the oil from the skin once you’re done oil cleansing. ✧ You will see when you add water to the oil it turns into a milky texture. ✧ (see nonionic surfactants) This is why I prefer oil cleansers rather than just straight oils. Follow up with a water based cleanser. I wouldn't recommend oil cleansing twice a day. Using a cleanser twice a day is not necessary and can be too stripping for some, especially those with dehydrated skin like myself. Oil cleansing is for a deep clean, not something meant for mornings.

Mineral oil controversy:

While discussing oil we also encounter the controversy around the usage of Mineral oil. Mineral oil is a clear and odorless liquid made from petrolatum. It is related to petroleum jelly (vaseline). It is a safe ingredient used to treat rashes and prevent transepidermal water loss. ✧ The clean beauty community has negative views on mineral oil and petrolatum because they think it is dirty since it is derived from petroleum. These are false since it is refined and there are no traces of what it was in the final product. ✧ There are also concerns as to its ability to clog pores. This is at a low risk in cleansing oils because it will be washed off with the help of nonionic surfactants and a water based cleanser. So there is no need to fear mineral oil, it is safe!

Cleansing balms:

Cleansing balms are the solid form of cleansing oils. ✧ They have become popular because they are less messy than cleansing oils. They operate in the same way as cleansing oils: nonionic surfactants clean the oil off the skin once emulsified with water. There has been a controversy with cleansing balms concerning the use of PEG’s. PEG’s are different forms of the polymer polyethylene glycol. These are identified by molecular weight with a number. For example, a label might say PEG-10. They are used as emollients, emulsifiers, delivery agents, and many more. The concern around them is based on two things: toxicity and sustainability. PEG’s are ethoxylated and for that reason they can have residue of 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide. These are classified as carcinogenic category 2. This means that they cause cancer in animals, but there is little evidence showing they are carcinogenic in humans. For humans it is classified in category 1, meaning that it is possibly carcinogenic. In a study by SCCS they found that 1,4 dioxane can penetrate the skin when occluded, but evaporated quickly when not occluded. ✧ Since we are discussing a wash off product, this is not a high risk. The concentration matters greatly as well. Every ingredient can have a negative effect if it is at a higher concentration than what is its known safe concentration. ✧ The other concern around polyethylene is sustainability. Polyethylene is a form of plastic, like water bottles, bags, cosmetic bottles, etc. It is a polymer of ethylene gas. The use of plastic has been increasing pollution in the environment. ✧ Polyethylene in cleansing balms can affect aquatic life because it runs down the drain while being washed off. ✧ It is microplastic and it should not be in our oceans. They contribute to pollution and, although they are in low concentrations most of the time, the continuous use adds up. My position on this is: use a cleansing oil. In that way, there is no environmental damage and you still get a double cleanse. Find the oil that you feel comfortable using and works for your skin.

How to first cleanse:

When you are ready to start your bedtime skincare routine, first always wash your hands. You don’t want to touch your face with possible COVID-19, or any germs for that matter. After you dry your hands then you can go in with an oil cleanser or a balm. When oil cleansing it is important to keep the skin dry. Just like we learned in school, oil and water do not mix. Mixing an oil cleanser with water before massaging it will not be as effective. So once you rub it around for a bit to remove all the makeup and/or SPF, you can rinse with water. The, follow up with a regular water based cleanser to fully remove the oil and any residue of makeup or sunscreen. After that, you have successfully and effectively cleansed your face. Now you can go on with the rest of your routine <3.

My recommendations:

⓵ IUNIK CALENDULA COMPLETE CLEANSING OIL

I love the formulation of this product and iunik is a very good korean brand. This has a high concentration of sunflower seed oil, a very good quality oil.

⓶ PURITO FROM GREEN CLEANSING OIL

Another amazing brand. This oil uses olive oil as it’s main oil. Very good formula.

⓷ KOSE SOFTYMO SPEEDY CLEANSING OIL

I prefer this version over the popular orange one because this one is fragrance free. The other one has orange oil. Also very affordable. A personal fave.

⓹ KLAIRS GENTLE BLACK DEEP CLEANSING OIL